Part of the guide Troubleshooting a boiler fault
Short answer: the cylinder sensor (also called a cylinder thermistor or cylinder NTC) measures the temperature in an indirectly heated hot water cylinder and tells the boiler or heat pump when the cylinder needs reheating. If it fails, the cylinder stays cold, or it gets too hot because the appliance keeps heating it, or you get a code such as Intergas 40, Vaillant F.03 or F.13, Nefit H12 or ATAG 203. The sensor costs € 19 to € 98, sits in a dry pocket with no water contact and is one of the few parts you can often replace yourself. Below are the codes, how to measure it and which sensor fits which appliance. If you have an electric water heater with its own element, read Electric water heater not producing hot water.
What the cylinder sensor does
An indirectly heated cylinder has no heating of its own; heating water from the boiler or heat pump flows through a coil in the tank. The sensor sits in a dry pocket in the cylinder wall, usually halfway up, and is an NTC: a resistor whose value drops as it gets warmer. At 10 kOhm the appliance reads, for example, 25 degrees; at about 1.2 kOhm, 60 degrees. If the measured temperature drops below the set cylinder temperature, the appliance switches the three-way valve to the cylinder and heats it. That is exactly why a sensor that measures incorrectly causes two opposite complaints.
The symptoms
| What you notice | What the sensor is doing | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cylinder no longer heats up, heating works | Sensor reads too high or is short-circuited: the appliance thinks the cylinder is hot | Measure the resistance, replace the sensor |
| Cylinder gets scalding hot, appliance keeps heating it | Sensor reads too low or is open-circuit | Check sensor and cable; excessively hot tap water is a scalding risk, switch the cylinder function off temporarily |
| Code: cylinder sensor open or short-circuit | Broken wire, loose plug or faulty NTC | See codes below |
| Cylinder gets lukewarm, boiler switches back early | Sensor not pushed far enough into the pocket or measuring on the outside | Sensor helemaal inschuiven, zo nodig warmtegeleidende pasta |
| Cylinder hot, but tap water cold | Not a sensor problem | Mixing valve, inlet group or pipework; see no hot water |
The codes per brand
| Brand | Code | Message |
|---|---|---|
| Intergas | 40 / 0-4 | Sensor fault cylinder sensor S4 |
| Nefit Bosch | H12 | Cylinder temperature sensor faulty; boiler temporarily takes over the function |
| Vaillant | F.03 | Cylinder temperature sensor signal interrupted |
| Vaillant | F.13 | Cylinder temperature sensor short circuit |
| Bosch | 1022 W | Cylinder temperature sensor faulty or contact problem |
| Bosch | Ad / A5 | Cylinder NTC not recognised or faulty |
| ATAG | 203 | Cylinder sensor open circuit (system boiler with cylinder) |
| ATAG | bl 92 / bl 93 | Cylinder sensor T6 open or closed (solar cylinder) |
| AWB | F.13 | Cylinder sensor short circuit |
| Inventum (heat pump) | F-57 | Cylinder temperature fault |
Remeha boilers usually show a cylinder sensor fault as a general sensor code of the connected controller; look up the code on your display in the Remeha codes.
Measuring it yourself with a multimeter
Unplug the sensor (at the boiler or at the cylinder, wherever it is accessible) and measure the resistance across the two wires. Most cylinder sensors are 10 kOhm at 25 degrees and about 1.2 kOhm at 60 degrees; older Remeha Aqua cylinders use a 1 kOhm sensor. The exact table is in the installation manual of your appliance. If you measure infinity (open circuit) or zero (short circuit), the sensor or the cable is faulty. If you measure a normal value while the code persists, the problem is in the cable to the boiler or in the connection on the PCB.
Replacing it: you can do this yourself
The sensor sits in a sealed pocket; no water escapes. Unplug it, pull the old sensor out of the pocket, push the new one all the way in and route the cable back the same way. If the plug on the boiler side is behind the casing, have an engineer do that part: opening the casing of a gas appliance is a job for a certified gas engineer. On Nefit and Vaillant the connection is often on an external module or terminal strip that is accessible.
Which cylinder sensor fits which appliance?
The resistance value and the plug must match the appliance that controls the cylinder, not the cylinder itself. The parts below come from our catalogue; prices include VAT.
| Brand | Part | Article number | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Intergas | NTC cold water/cylinder | 8064010 | € 19.45 |
| Remeha | Cylinder sensor Calenta Ace-Matic 40L, 10 kOhm | 80103837 | € 13.95 |
| Remeha | Cylinder sensor Aqua, Cella, 1 kOhm | 8010018 | € 67.95 |
| Nefit Bosch | Cylinder sensor with extension lead | 0740034 | € 52.95 |
| Nefit Bosch | Adapter cable external cylinder sensor | 8027351 | € 29.95 |
| Vaillant | Cylinder sensor uniSTOR VIH | 8056639 | € 52.95 |
| Bosch | Cylinder temperature sensor | 8180040 | € 97.95 |
| ATAG | Cylinder sensor E320S | 0650037 | € 84.95 |
| ATAG | NTC cylinder external SHR/Q series | 8136372 | € 54.95 |
| Inventum | Cylinder sensor | 8771536 | € 25.95 |
| Daikin | Cylinder sensor (heat pump) | 91560171 | € 82.95 |
All sensors and NTCs are listed under temperature sensors. If you do not know which sensor you have, measure the resistance at room temperature and send us that value with a photo of the rating plate of the boiler or heat pump.
Frequently asked questions
Can I manage without a cylinder sensor for a while?
No. Without a valid sensor signal the appliance will not heat the cylinder, or with some brands will heat it without limit. Switch the cylinder function off until the sensor has been replaced; the heating will keep working as normal.
How hot should the water in the cylinder get?
For a home, set it to 60 degrees: hot enough to protect against legionella, not so hot that the mixing valve has to be fully open all the time. If the water gets much hotter without any change in settings, suspect the sensor.
Is the cylinder sensor in the cylinder or in the boiler?
In the cylinder, in a pocket in the wall. The cable runs to the boiler or heat pump and is connected there to the PCB or a terminal strip.
My cylinder is old – does the anode need replacing too?
Probably. The anode protects the tank against corrosion and is used up after five to eight years. Read Replacing a water heater anode; it is the cheapest part that will save your tank.
Also in this guide
- Topping up your boiler: step-by-step plan, correct pressure and tips per brand
- Does an Intergas boiler have a three-way valve? No, and this is what it has instead
- Original or alternative boiler part: where it is safe, where it is not, and what it means for your warranty
- Automatic air vent on a boiler or underfloor heating: how it works, when it is faulty, cap open or closed, and which one fits
- Back to the overview: Troubleshooting boiler faults