EU delivery from € 9.95 · free from € 199 In stock: delivered in 3–5 working days Delivery across the EU WebwinkelKeur 8,8/10 Pay by card, Apple Pay, Pay by Bank & Klarna
★★★★★8,8/1024 reviews · verified by WebwinkelKeurAll reviews →

Faulty hot water sensor: codes, testing with a multimeter and which sensor fits

Part of the guide Troubleshooting a boiler fault

Short answer: the cylinder sensor (also called a cylinder thermistor or cylinder NTC) measures the temperature in an indirectly heated hot water cylinder and tells the boiler or heat pump when the cylinder needs reheating. If it fails, the cylinder stays cold, or it gets too hot because the appliance keeps heating it, or you get a code such as Intergas 40, Vaillant F.03 or F.13, Nefit H12 or ATAG 203. The sensor costs € 19 to € 98, sits in a dry pocket with no water contact and is one of the few parts you can often replace yourself. Below are the codes, how to measure it and which sensor fits which appliance. If you have an electric water heater with its own element, read Electric water heater not producing hot water.

What the cylinder sensor does

An indirectly heated cylinder has no heating of its own; heating water from the boiler or heat pump flows through a coil in the tank. The sensor sits in a dry pocket in the cylinder wall, usually halfway up, and is an NTC: a resistor whose value drops as it gets warmer. At 10 kOhm the appliance reads, for example, 25 degrees; at about 1.2 kOhm, 60 degrees. If the measured temperature drops below the set cylinder temperature, the appliance switches the three-way valve to the cylinder and heats it. That is exactly why a sensor that measures incorrectly causes two opposite complaints.

The symptoms

What you noticeWhat the sensor is doingWhat to do
Cylinder no longer heats up, heating worksSensor reads too high or is short-circuited: the appliance thinks the cylinder is hotMeasure the resistance, replace the sensor
Cylinder gets scalding hot, appliance keeps heating itSensor reads too low or is open-circuitCheck sensor and cable; excessively hot tap water is a scalding risk, switch the cylinder function off temporarily
Code: cylinder sensor open or short-circuitBroken wire, loose plug or faulty NTCSee codes below
Cylinder gets lukewarm, boiler switches back earlySensor not pushed far enough into the pocket or measuring on the outsideSensor helemaal inschuiven, zo nodig warmtegeleidende pasta
Cylinder hot, but tap water coldNot a sensor problemMixing valve, inlet group or pipework; see no hot water

The codes per brand

BrandCodeMessage
Intergas40 / 0-4Sensor fault cylinder sensor S4
Nefit BoschH12Cylinder temperature sensor faulty; boiler temporarily takes over the function
VaillantF.03Cylinder temperature sensor signal interrupted
VaillantF.13Cylinder temperature sensor short circuit
Bosch1022 WCylinder temperature sensor faulty or contact problem
BoschAd / A5Cylinder NTC not recognised or faulty
ATAG203Cylinder sensor open circuit (system boiler with cylinder)
ATAGbl 92 / bl 93Cylinder sensor T6 open or closed (solar cylinder)
AWBF.13Cylinder sensor short circuit
Inventum (heat pump)F-57Cylinder temperature fault

Remeha boilers usually show a cylinder sensor fault as a general sensor code of the connected controller; look up the code on your display in the Remeha codes.

Measuring it yourself with a multimeter

Unplug the sensor (at the boiler or at the cylinder, wherever it is accessible) and measure the resistance across the two wires. Most cylinder sensors are 10 kOhm at 25 degrees and about 1.2 kOhm at 60 degrees; older Remeha Aqua cylinders use a 1 kOhm sensor. The exact table is in the installation manual of your appliance. If you measure infinity (open circuit) or zero (short circuit), the sensor or the cable is faulty. If you measure a normal value while the code persists, the problem is in the cable to the boiler or in the connection on the PCB.

Replacing it: you can do this yourself

The sensor sits in a sealed pocket; no water escapes. Unplug it, pull the old sensor out of the pocket, push the new one all the way in and route the cable back the same way. If the plug on the boiler side is behind the casing, have an engineer do that part: opening the casing of a gas appliance is a job for a certified gas engineer. On Nefit and Vaillant the connection is often on an external module or terminal strip that is accessible.

Which cylinder sensor fits which appliance?

The resistance value and the plug must match the appliance that controls the cylinder, not the cylinder itself. The parts below come from our catalogue; prices include VAT.

BrandPartArticle numberPrice
IntergasNTC cold water/cylinder8064010€ 19.45
RemehaCylinder sensor Calenta Ace-Matic 40L, 10 kOhm80103837€ 13.95
RemehaCylinder sensor Aqua, Cella, 1 kOhm8010018€ 67.95
Nefit BoschCylinder sensor with extension lead0740034€ 52.95
Nefit BoschAdapter cable external cylinder sensor8027351€ 29.95
VaillantCylinder sensor uniSTOR VIH8056639€ 52.95
BoschCylinder temperature sensor8180040€ 97.95
ATAGCylinder sensor E320S0650037€ 84.95
ATAGNTC cylinder external SHR/Q series8136372€ 54.95
InventumCylinder sensor8771536€ 25.95
DaikinCylinder sensor (heat pump)91560171€ 82.95

All sensors and NTCs are listed under temperature sensors. If you do not know which sensor you have, measure the resistance at room temperature and send us that value with a photo of the rating plate of the boiler or heat pump.

Frequently asked questions

Can I manage without a cylinder sensor for a while?

No. Without a valid sensor signal the appliance will not heat the cylinder, or with some brands will heat it without limit. Switch the cylinder function off until the sensor has been replaced; the heating will keep working as normal.

How hot should the water in the cylinder get?

For a home, set it to 60 degrees: hot enough to protect against legionella, not so hot that the mixing valve has to be fully open all the time. If the water gets much hotter without any change in settings, suspect the sensor.

Is the cylinder sensor in the cylinder or in the boiler?

In the cylinder, in a pocket in the wall. The cable runs to the boiler or heat pump and is connected there to the PCB or a terminal strip.

My cylinder is old – does the anode need replacing too?

Probably. The anode protects the tank against corrosion and is used up after five to eight years. Read Replacing a water heater anode; it is the cheapest part that will save your tank.

Also in this guide

Scroll to Top